List of Monumental sculpture projects 2015

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Wednesday, 26 April 2017

3d printing class - discovery

3d printing class - discovery

3, 4 max per class

Objective:  Learn how to use the Ultimaker 2+

I prepared 4 small files each 14mn-15mn, each person prints out a small object to take home.
1// small vase (thingiverse)
2// small cup
3// small key chain Alphabet -  A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y  Z
4// small cube

Other ready made .obj
Chinese coin
square w round hole
spiral tube
moebius ring

Part 1 

Learn how to import your .obj file into cura
Export it in .gcode
Put the .gcode file onto sd card
Part 2
Ultimaker 2+ is off

Turn it on
Begin with no filament;
put filament bobbin onto the rack behind, make sure the filament is pointing towards the intake unit

Watch the lcd screen;
Follow instructions
Wait for filament to come out before clicking

Start printing
Part 3

Wait for the print to cool down
take spatula, delicately remove the print from the hot plate
Turn off the machine at the end

Sunday, 23 April 2017

3d print tutorial Tyrannosaurus rex bone
detail instructions
Tyrannosaurus rex thighbone by Naturalis Biodiversity Center - Ultimaker: 3D Printing Timelapse

Splicing a model in half for 3d printing in SketchUp

Answer to someones ques how to print two parts of an object...
Posted Dec 17, 2014 - 8:54 AM

Need to split an object into 2 part and save the gcode .

You can also do this easily in Cura:
Go to advanced tab and cut off object bottom to where you want to split. Save to gcode
Then rotate the object 180° and cut object bottom to have the second part. Save to gcode and print both.
Or cut off object in the middle and duplicate the object (just rotate one 180° and print both

Saturday, 22 April 2017

bronze filled colorfabb filament 65%pla, 35%bronze dust

To be tested soon.
This filament needs polishing and will achieve metal like shinyness, but will not be outdoor proof.
It melts /deforms at 110 F

Still nice to make a comparison.
stay tuned 
according to this site, it says esun filaments have no detectable metal powder.

Friday, 21 April 2017

passive amplifier, bowls, ding, w vinyl disk

Passive amplifier, bowls, dings: thermo forming using  retired vinyl disks as source material.

Recycling art and design project:
Vinyl Passive amplifier
Vinyl Bowls
Vinyl Dings

Project conception, research and execution : Swannjie
Team:  Laundry - laser cutting, Etienne - oven management, Swannjie - odds and ends.

I had seen a very nice salade bowl, black vinyl disk at Linz in their museum boutique, price 32euros. Very nice simple idea.

Then, I saw on youtube, how to make use of retired vinyl disks.

Here is my version of heat forming retired vinyl disk.

There are several ways that I have seen. 

1// you heat up disk in an oven, when it is soft place it onto a form, and pull the disk through the form with hands w much brut force.  This way, it is going to take the shape of a tulip cup - passive amplifier.

2// you heat up disk in an oven/ or in a bowl of hot water, and press by hand the soften disk into any shapes, ie flower - bowl for odds and ends, (not food)

3// you clamp the disk between 2 rack (like tennis racket principle), heat up the whole structure in an oven, when it is hot and soft, place a weight onto the disk and let gravity drag the object downwards thus stretching the disk into a conic shape.  

I will try it the third way.  I think using gravity is a very smart way to stretch the vinyl.

The vinyl disk all sandwiched up between boards to be put into oven .

these are circular seats, similar to the what vinyl disk could be/ will be thermo formed into.


Using the troctec laser cutter, Laundry cut up 2 squares with circles inside the squares.Two squares, 35cm2 each. 
Traced a vinyl record outline, and draw a smaller circle inside the outline.  
The diameter of the inner circle is 29cm, the diameter of the vinyl disk was 30cm

Sand down approx 1mm the ring shaped space between the two circles  - so that the disk can be blocked in an allocated space and not shift around.  
We now have a sandwiched vinyl disk between two square plates with big circle openings.

We will stretch the vinyl disk once its heated and softened enough.

I fixed the two squares together with some small clamps and large metal clips.

Will put the sandwiched vinyl disk into oven tomorrow.

Thursday, 20 April 2017

eSun Bronze PLA filament / photos in shade and in sunlight

eSun Bronze PLA filament

Found pdf by eSun, there is no metal powder in this pla, it does have additive.

People who saw me printing at the (Ultimaker 2+ extended ) machine all want to know the name of this material.
Its PLA Bronze.  No sure if it does have bronze or not.  Light weight unlike metal.

Since I had done research on metal filaments, proto-pasta iron filled, inox, bronze, copper etc, and watched many videos of various testers on youtube.

So I test printed the material, because of various factors.

#1, I am testing this at faclab Cergy Pontoise, and they are very kind to let me use their machines.
So I got the right nozzle, regular, .4mm, just like for any PLA, manufacture notice says, temperature 180-210, I tested it, best temperature is 193 degree C. on the machine that i used.  Any higher, its quite liquid.  I want the material to come out less splashy.  (photos coming..)

#2, Manufacture notice (somewhere online) I only saw it once, on some page, that it is recommended to print up to 3hr at a time.

#3, after your print, you pass a "cleaning filament" to clear out all leftover bronze dust that might accumulate from the print.  So i checked out what is a "cleaning filament"?  It is a large range filament that can stand from low heat to high heat without burning - so it flushes out the traces of the previous filament, and your colors will be purely the next filament.  You pass a few cm of cleaning filament.
So in fact, if you pass the new filament through until you see totally clean colors, it means, all the dust has gone.  So that is what I will do.

Rule 1: no more than 3hrs w bronze PLA.  (more testing on this, pic coming)
Rule 2: pass new filament for a bit to clear out bronze dust filled filament before starting your new non bronze filled filament.

Here, we have a print with colorfabb olympic gold PLA, see the brim?  The dark edge?  It has small traces of the bronze dust residual in the nozzle and was cleared out.

#4, outcome, looks fabulous, and if it were really bronze filled dust - then it is a kind of bronze.  Though we dont know how much bronze is in the material - in the final print.  But it looks great and no "finishes" fussing afterwards.

Photos in shade

Back side of star, printed at 210 C, see the center of the star, filament melted together in one sheet - a slushy blobby consistency, temperature too hot?  Filament too liquid.

The fatter star behind, printed at 193 C, gd, drier consistency.

There seems to be a few holes on the surface of the star, this could be inconsistancy of the filament itself.  ie. water bubble in the filament.  Or, the file?  To know for sure, I have to print it out at a larger scale and see if holes appear at the same spot.

"Round thread nut and screw" used as print test.  File from thingiverse.  
Nut and Screw adjusted to be printed for 35mm dia.  Temperature 210 C, splashy, very liquid.   Could be interesting for specific effects, ie.melting effects.  Not suitable for a screw and nut intended for normal use.  Not enough precision.

ebronze filled esun filament, printed at 193 C, out put texture consistency I like.  This is the brim, back side of the star pod.

Photos under sunlight

More under sunlight details

Full size model coming soon...

Tuesday, 18 April 2017

how to print bigger things

For very good dimensional accuracy (corners not blobby) it's best to keep the speed low. For really beautiful parts you want to go no faster than around 25mm/sec regardless of layer height and nozzle size. This has to do with speed changes at corners. The printer has to slow down to 14mm/sec on a right angle corner so only slowing by about 2X is barely a problem but if you are at 50mm/sec or faster the corners are noticably bulging. This is regardless of nozzle size or layer height. That's why it's so great to print with a bigger nozzle instead of just printing faster.
You will get consistently better quality at lower printing temps but this means you also have to slow down as it's harder to get filament through the nozzle. For high quality 210-220C is a good compromise. For extra high quality print extra slow (10mm/sec?) and at 190C. That way the filament is more like cement and is better at not moving in the second before it cools. But really 220C is my favorite temperature. For the .8mm nozzle and larger it's best to print hotter as it is hard for the heat to penetrate to the center (unless you buy a 3dsolex race nozzle) and so ultimaker recommends printing a bit hotter with .8mm and larger nozzles.
how to print bigger things

vinyl record stretched into speakers
Die Vinyl Schüssel
passive amplifier manufacturing

Change the Record by Paul Cocksedge