Shuen-git rl 周旋捷; Swann Jie sl/, 2011:
N°1 Sculptures
N°2 好奇藝術::舊+新 Kunstkammer :: Old+New & Film Reviews
N°3 Digital Guqin Museum 數碼古琴互動藝術研究創作室
MicroTotalArt
HandScroll Guqin; HuaKui cubes;
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http://swannbb.blogspot.fr/2015/02/sgc-2015-monumental-sculptures-etc.html
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For very good dimensional accuracy (corners not blobby) it's best to keep the speed low. For really beautiful parts you want to go no faster than around 25mm/sec regardless of layer height and nozzle size. This has to do with speed changes at corners. The printer has to slow down to 14mm/sec on a right angle corner so only slowing by about 2X is barely a problem but if you are at 50mm/sec or faster the corners are noticably bulging. This is regardless of nozzle size or layer height. That's why it's so great to print with a bigger nozzle instead of just printing faster.
temperature
You will get consistently better quality at lower printing temps but this means you also have to slow down as it's harder to get filament through the nozzle. For high quality 210-220C is a good compromise. For extra high quality print extra slow (10mm/sec?) and at 190C. That way the filament is more like cement and is better at not moving in the second before it cools. But really 220C is my favorite temperature. For the .8mm nozzle and larger it's best to print hotter as it is hard for the heat to penetrate to the center (unless you buy a 3dsolex race nozzle) and so ultimaker recommends printing a bit hotter with .8mm and larger nozzles.
Last month, L’Opera de Montreal brought to life Richard Strauss’ tragedy Elektra, the harrowing and legendary story of the Greek heroine Elektra and her desire to avenge her father, Agamemnon. The opera itself received rave reviews with the performers being lauded for their emotional and convincing performances, though another aspect of the opera also had its share of the spotlight: a seven meter tall,over 2400 kg, 3D printed statue of Elektra’s father, which made up the set decor.
The statue’s design was based off of an original work by San Diego artist Victor Ochoa that represents Agamemnon’s broken and suffering self. During the opera, the hulking sculpture was a constant presence on the stage, shadowing and looming over the actors as well as being moved around by them.
The process of 3D printing the giant set piece was led by a team at AsorCAD, a 3D printing service that specializes in 3D design, reverse engineering, and capture point cloud. AsorCAD also worked in collaboration with Spanish 3D printing service Undo, who helped them to design and optimize the digital 3D design and its properties, and supplied a set of BCN3D 3D printers to additively manufacture the artwork.
In order to create the immense sculpture, the design had to first be divided into different sections and sub-sections to accommodate the size of the 3D printers’ print beds. Undo was responsible for the division as well as determining the thickness of the individual pieces to provide a stable, moveable structure. Once the sections were divided into separate CAD files, a set of Catalan BCN3D+ 3D printers set to work in additively manufacturing the individual pieces. In the end, almost 400kg of filament were used to 3D print over 2,900 pieces which, when assembled, made up the skin of the sculpture. The inside of the sculpture consists of an aluminium frame that provides stability and to which the outer 3D printed pieces are secured to.
Once the pieces were assembled the sculpture was treated with various surface finishing processes to both keep the pieces safely together, and to give the statue the desired aesthetic look and texture. In total, the 3D printed sculpture took over seven months hard work to create and over 100 people in various teams working to bring the project together.
Of course, working to create a 7 meter tall 3D printed statue posed some inevitable challenges, but with the teams at AsorCAD and Undo, and artist Victor Ochoa working closely together, the work came together impressively well. As can be seem in the photos of the stage layout, the sculpture provides a unique and interactive backdrop for the actors to engage with, and is itself a striking piece of art.
Voodoo Manufacturing co-founder Jonathan Schwartz was able to successfully scan himself and create a life-like model in a similar fashion, without forking over the $30,000 the Groupon cost. Now the company, along with Body Labs, is offering their own 3D-printed models for $3,000.
The model was broken down into 88 unique segments, which could then be printed out and assembled. With a factory in Brooklyn that houses 150 3D printers from MakerBot, Voodoo Manufacturing is able to mass produce 3D-printed parts in short order. A spokesperson for the company told the Daily Dot the 88 pieces of Schwartz were printed within 24 hours.
While Voodoo Manufacturing provides the materials needed to bring the bodies into form, it’s the technology from Body Labs that makes it all possible. “Without their tech, it would have been impossible to 3D-print an accurate life-size model of Jon, and probably even more impossible to segment his body into so many different pieces,” the spokesperson said.
Body Labs utilizes research from Brown University and the Max Planck Institute for Intelligent Systems in Tübingen, Germany to create its digital replications. The mathematically accurate digital models that they produce from 3D scans can be reposed, animated, and manipulated at will thanks to the incredible amount of detail that they capture.
human size wax statue
Qingdao https://3dprint.com/8615/life-sized-wax-3d-print/ Have you ever wanted to make a life-sized replica of yourself in wax? Well soon you will be able to. Chinese company, Qingdao Unique Products Develop Co. Ltd, has revealed a 2 meter high 3D printer, capable of printing out wax models of people as tall as 6'6". The company has yet to announce any specifications of the machine, but it looks like a monster as you can see in the picture below. We do know that it uses FDM technology. More details on this printer and the company behind it can be found in the article located here:http://3dprint.com/8615/life-sized-wax-3d-print
If there’s any doubt about the model’s quality, you’ll be happy to learn that renowned sculptor Yuji Sakai, revered as one of Japan’s greatest sculptors from the kaniju (monster) movie scene, was in charge. His team designed the model by 3D scanning an existing 30cm tall version of the 1991 Godzilla, and adjusted that data for a full-sized model – complete with high quality textures, coloring and a few other dimensional alternations. According to Japanese sources, the industrial strength 3D scanner captures all size intricacies perfectly, including the mouth and dorsal fin, and provided the chief modeler with all the data necessary to create a high-quality model.
In fact, the final model is a dead ringer for the Godzilla suit used during the movie in terms of texture, color and overall feel. To make it, the sculptors used the custom COCOMIYAGI76 high-precision 3D printer, featuring a build volume of 60 x 60 x 70 cm – by no means big enough for a full sized model, but much bigger than most. Yuji Sakai’s team therefore divided the model into sections, which each part 3D printed in the highest quality using Nanodax's glass-wool filament. 3D printing was followed by sanding to optimize the texture quality, especially for the fangs, claws and dorsal fin.
Oct 25, 2016 | By Alec
I always believe that movie villains are just misunderstood, and the same can certainly be said about Godzilla – who is sometimes presented as nothing more than a natural disaster. If you love this not-so-friendly giant as much as we do, here’s some good news: it’s not too late to create a Godzilla-inspired Halloween party just yet. Bandai has 3D printed a man-sized Godzilla statue that perfectly captures every detail of the iconic cinematic monster, the first in a line of human-scale monsters, and it is now available for a massive $40,000.
Godzilla has undergone several changes throughout its history, since its 1954 film debut, and this particular version is based on the 1991 movie Godzilla vs King Ghidorah. It is part of Bandai’s Human Size Project, which seeks to relaunch iconic franchise characters as human sized models. Godzilla is the first in line, and this particular 192 cm tall figure (including pedestal) is now available.
Since this sculpture is to be made with the lost wax casting technique, our next step is making a silicon rubber mold and wax work from the printed model.
Step 4: Bronze Casting Sculpture
Our next step is using the rubber and wax model for bronze casting. Our craftsman will carefully cast bronze, do chasing and polishing on the bronze casting sculpture.
The fab lab (short for “fabrication laboratory”) was developed at MIT in the early 2000s. It is a small-scale workshop offering public access to computer-assisted design and production tools, enabling such operations as milling, laser cutting and 3D printing. The emergence of fab labs is associated with the “maker” movement, a digital extension of the radical DIY culture that emerged in the 1960s, which combines practical, even craft skills with the use of digital tools. Through the fab labs, 3D printing has become the emblem of the new sharing economy.
in Code Couleur, n°27, january-april 2017, pp.22-25
Experimental Garden 2017, Coconut palm from store bought coconut
purchased two coconuts from Bilal, vaureal. 1.5eur for 2
I shooked the two coconuts and make sure they were heavy , with water inside.
all eyes are fine, no visible mold etc.
takes 2wks to 1 month from coconut,
1// soak 3 nights in warm water
2// put in zip locked bag; put some water inside bag; keep moist
3// eyes facing up so sprout will grow out of one of the eye
http://widerwille.com/tyl010
diff wood, diff settings, testing metal pla
PRINTING WITH WOOD AND METAL ON AN ULTIMAKER 2
BRONZEFILL
This material is based on our unique PLA/PHA recipe which means that it will print very similar to our other PLA/PHA materials. We’re sure most will be able to dial in settings in no time, but we still thought a write-up on print settings is interesting to share. If you have great tips or slicer settings please share! support@colorfabb.com
BUILD PLATFORM
This filament will print great on both heated and non heated build platforms. For cold build platforms we generaly use blue painters tape which you can buy at any decent hardware store. We’ve noticed that bronzeFill has prety much no warping what so ever, it’s much better then regular PLA.
For heated build platforms we use a temperature of 55-60 C which will keep the print sticking to the platform. It can be printed straight on glass or with a bit of gluestick applied to it. We’ve also printed it succesfully on kapton tape with the same temperature settings.
SLICER SETTINGS
The next few tables show the most relevant slicer settings for Cura en Makerware. If you prefer to use a different slicer software you should be able to find similar settings and create your own profiles.
An excellent result of the Torture test printed on the Makerbot Replicator 2.
POST PROCESSING
Normally we don’t like to do post processing of any of our prints, they should look awesome straight of the printer. For bronzeFill we’re happy to make an exception, since it will elevate your models to another level when polished. Here we’ll document the various methods of post processing the 3d prints. We’re a little out of our depths here so we’ve been seeking help from the active community of makers.
Various grit sand paper.
1. Sanding
First what you want to do is sand your model with a fairly rough grit of sand paper, something like 220-240 should work nicely. BronzeFill is much easier to sand down then regular PLA, so depending on your model this shouldn’t take too long. By increasing the grit of the sand paper the model will get smoother everytime, exposing the bronze particles at the surface, but it will still look matte and dull.
We used steel wool after sanding down the layers.
2. Steel wool
This tip came in from Paul Braddock, a talented character modelling artist and active member of the Ultimaker community. He used steel wool to polish the surface which will start exposing the bronze particles even more. We’ve tried this method with a fairly fine grade of steel wool and were impressed how shiny it already got!
Making it all shiny and nice!
3. Making it Shiny!
Now that the layers are sand down and the bronze particles are already shining a bit on top of the surface it’s ready for the next step. Now this is were it becomes really interesting, since there are so many methods of making bronze shiny. We used a copper polish which gave nice results. It was applied with a dry towel making small circular movements and applying light pressure, then we used another side of the towel to get rit of all the polishing paste.
A print by Paul Braddock “treated with an antique patina, the bronze fill reacts to it just like foundry cast bronze.”
Apart from polishing the material to make it more shiny one can also apply products to create a patina look. We haven’t been able to try this personally but Paul Braddock did. This is what he was able to create with an antigue Patina, it looks stunning.
How do you choose the best material for your application. The table above, is the average of our measurements of actual 3D Printed test parts for the noted polymers. As any extreme of a polymer get's close to the orange center-line, we must pay special attention and or be more specific as to the desired intent of the end part. As a point of reference, a rubber-band would be on the left and have little Tensile, but a considerable elongation/stretch/bend. On the other end, we would have window glass. While window glass has a tensile of ~9,000PSI, it has zero elongation, i.e. it will crack easily. ABS is often used as it has a general combination of reasonable tensile, but with enough elongation so as not to disintegrate when put in a mild strain. Another common 3D Printing material is standard PLA. As noted above, we are giving up elongation for tensile. The end PLA part "feels" hard, but it's also very brittle. From the list of materials we can denote some potential uses.
PCTPE = PCTPE is a flexible nylon developed by taulman3D specifically for 3D Printing. It has an additive of TPE elastomer to give it additional flexibility. Potential uses: Large inaccessible gears. Wearable items Cogging systems and ratchet systems Vibration damping Motor mounting
Nylon 230 = Nylon 230 is a low temperature nylon developed by taulman3D specifically for 3D Printing on systems that have cold print beds and lower temp capabilities. Potential uses: Gears - light load Fan blades Housings Phone covers Protective covers/enclosures. Cosmetics containers
Nylon 645 = Nylon 645 is an Industrial nylon developed by taulman3D specifically for 3D Printing with non-destructive evaluation capability. Potential uses: Gears - Med/Heavy load Propeller blades General Industrial needs Large Flanges, Housings, positioning Wide Chemical resistance of petrol's Sand blasting Masking Spacers/Interconnect
Nylon 645 REV"B" called Bridge Nylon = Bridge was developed as a request from the 3D Printing community at large. Potential uses: Gears - Med Load Supports for spacers, flanges and general utility Med chemical resistance, uses exclude any chlorine's Household replacement parts.
Nylon 680 = Nylon 680 was developed at taulman3D to meet certain FDA criteria for clinical and other applications. Potential uses: There are many uses in the clinical, food and medical industries. As any material needs to be fully tested for each use, it will be several months before testing is complete and certified uses are noted.
Alloy 910 = Alloy 910 is a significant development by taulman3D and both our chemical house and post processing company. The goal was to provide a super material with very high tensile, yet sufficient elongation to maintain a high degree of durability. Alloy 910, when 3D Printed comes in at 8,100 PSI Tensile and close to 12,000PSI when injection molded. Potential uses: Any industrial parts that are currently being made of other high tensile polymers. Large motor mounting Industrial vibration isolators and damping parts High Pressure Sand Blasting resistant Sand Blast Masking Electroplating supports and hangers Chemical dip and tank supports. High end gears and cams Chemical resistant equipment covers.
Next in-line are the Co-Polyesters, guidel!ne, t-glase and TECH-G A major advantage to all co-polyesters is their low shrinkage specifications. t-glase, n-vent and Tritan are some of the easiest-to-print polymers as they adhere well to either clean glass heated to 5C below their Tg or glass with a coat of PVA heated to just 45C.
guidel!ne = guidel!ne is a unique high strength PETG based material with excellent high temperature printing capabilities. Users know that printing small features of some parts can be difficult due to thermal build-up. guidel!ne is much less susceptible to these thermal issues allowing for finer detail without distortion. guidel!ne is also released as a starting point for individuals and companies wishing to obtain eventual FDA/CE certification for a device knowing that the raw material itself is listed with the FDA and has already passed specific FDA testing. Potential uses: As a replacement for any parts currently printed using ABS, PLA or PETG guidel!ne is 100% bonding layer to layer and parts will never "split" apart or "de-laminate" even in very large prints. Glass like qualities Glass clear when used with clear epoxies. "Non-shattering" parts upon over-stress Architectural Components. Jewelry
t-glase (Tee-Glass) = t-glase was developed specifically by taulman3D to provide three major features to 3D Printing. Low shrinkage, Higher strength than ABS and aesthetics beyond ABS and PLA due to it's enhanced optical properties. Potential uses: As a replacement for any parts currently printed using ABS t-glase is 100% bonding layer to layer and parts will never "split" apart or "de-laminate" even in very large prints. Glass like qualities Light Pipe capable Glass clear when used with clear epoxies. Crystal like reflections of the surface. Red, Green, Blue and Black are translucent. Now in Opaque White for a white that has a super gloss surface. "Non-shattering" parts upon over-stress Architectural Components. Jewelry Gaming pc's Light catching designs of any type.
TECH-G = TECH-G is the highest strength PETG for standard PETG polymers. TECH-G was developed for large prints that require low shrinkage over a wide surface area. TECH-G is available in 1kg, 3.5kg and larger spool sizes for large area printers. TECH-G's main use is for large components and Architectural landscapes.
BluPrint - BluPrint is a specialty polymer developed to specifically handle High Heat Deflection requirements. With a Tg of 110C and a print temp of only 265C, BluPrint is an easy to print polymer that comes as a clear material similar to t-glase. Potential uses: Lamp covers Antique car/item lenses or ligh covers, i.e. tail light, turn sig, etc.. Any use in high heat environment Thermal spacers Thermal Clamps Any part that will need to be placed in boiling water for preparation. BluPrint can sustain boiling water for 5 continuous hours. Clarity will be lost after 2 hours to a dull haze. Structure will be maintained.
Next are the more Flexible materials T-Lyne, SemiFlex
T-Lyne - T-lyne is a unique, crystal clear polyethylene co-polymer isomer developed specifically for high durability, flexibility, unique viscosity and a wide temperature range. Glass-like aesthetics can easily be obtained at high layer sizes using low speed and low temperatures in the range of 190 C to 210 C. Utility style parts are easily printed faster at standard layer sizes using higher temperatures up to 245 C, depending on nozzle size. Potential uses: Prosthetic Clear bottles, lids and containers Post print mold-able features Extreme Impact resistant parts Living Hinge parts Stretchable parts
NinjaFlex 3D Filament, SemiFlex - SemiFlex material boasts flexibility, strength and reliability for your 3D printing projects and is slightly more rigid than NinjaFlex to expand your printing possibilities. SemiFlex is best for the following types of projects: High level of detail Contain intricate parts High resolution text Unsupported vertical printing Shock-absorption needed Requires less flexibility than NinjaFlex original 3D Filament
Additional notes: 1. Only Nylons should be used for gears, etc where a slippery surface is desired. All other materials will scratch against each other creating a plastic dust. And eventual failure. 2. The scale above is for 100% infill of parts. Reducing infill % and number of perimeters will have a tendency to reduce Tensile, yet increase elongation. 3. Nylons do not crack/shatter, but will eventually compress and fold during severe over-stress. t-glase and TECH-G will not shatter, but can break along and against layers. Alloy 910 can either fold/compress or crack depending on part design. An excellent feature of Alloy is that Support material easily breaks away, yet durability is retained! 4. Nylons can be threaded using std TAPs and drilled directly without creating cracks. t-glase and TECH-G can also be tapped. When drilling, use a pilot hole close to the desired DIM. 5. Only use Nylon 645/Bridge or Alloy 910 for Sandblasting masking or similar applications. Most other materials will be destroyed in seconds. 6. For parts to be used outdoors, use a UV coating. 7. For High temperature Nylon, use Alloy 910 or Nylon 680. For High temperature co-polyester, use BluPrint.
